Sunday, November 20, 2011

Motorcycle touring New Zealand

New Zealand is a wonderful place to ride a motorcycle. I just had a week and a half riding the south island and apart from some mixed weather at first I have to say it was some of the best riding I have ever experienced.


I flew into Christchurch to meet a mate who was joining me on this ride and wow that city is really in bad shape from the earthquake. The TV cameras have long gone but the damage lives on with the majority of the downtown and neighboring areas one huge ghost town looking like something out of a WW2 movie. I have to suggest if you are going there to stay out of town as there simply is nothing open in the centre in the way of food etc.


I had booked a Suzuki Vstrom with City Motorcycle rentals Christchurch and the owners really looked after me before and after, very friendly - highly recommended.


PB140110


Plan was to do a leisurely loop around the south island with plenty of time spare to allow for weather and sightseeing. First of all went to the West Coast over Authur’s Pass and via Lake Brunner. Beautiful scenery and great sweepers to ride. After this I rode north to Westport along the coast. This road easy equals our Great Ocean Road for beautiful scenery and great curves that never let up for 90km.  Like most of New Zealand it has generous road speed limits and low to zero police patrols outside of major towns.


PB140125


I really liked riding the Northern part of the South Island. There is a network of roads servicing the rural areas that are all well surveyed and surfaced with next to no traffic. You need to plan your fuel as services can be few and far between but this isolation was something I enjoyed. The Buller Gorge area was particularly good riding. The Lewis Pass also a lot of fun and I would explore the area north to Picton more if I was to go again.


PB150143


Riding down the west coast is at times dramatic as you skirt the ocean then have the mountains rise up as you get closer to Franz Joseph. I have already done the helicopter to the top of the alps so just chilled in town while my mate experienced it, well worth the money if you are there sometime in my opinion.


PB160152


The Alps recede as you once again skirt the ocean riding south. There is a almost tropical feel to the vegetation but only for a short time before you turn left and climb up into the high mountains. Riding over Mt Aspiring you can enjoy a series of sweepers that go on and on, beautiful riding before exiting the mountain to Lake Wanaka where you hug the cliff for some exciting twisty road riding.


PB160163


PB160185


PB160193


About now I had accustomed to the Vstrom and will try explain my thoughts on it from my riding experience. Being high it certainly felt like a large bike compared to most I have ridden however it is not as heavy so not difficult to ride at low speed like some large bikes tend to be. All day comfortable seating and very stable in the sweepers, these would be the bikes strong points. Less willing to provide a quick change of direction and on twisty roads quite a bit of work to drop in and come out of switchbacks would be the weak points but perhaps not really the design of the bike. I would have liked a little more passing power but got used to working the gear box which is smooth. I experienced a lot of wind buffering to my helmet despite adjusting the screen and I hope this is limited to only me. I guess between the buffering and cornering characteristics it was not a match for me personally but then I tended to ride it harder than probably was the design cruising 140k in the sweepers and demanding more than I really should. However for me the CBF600 I had in Europe did everything a little better. But that’s just my personal experience


PB170198


From Wanaka I rode the spectacular Crown Range, perhaps the highest road I traversed this tour over to historic Arrowtown. I was a it disappointed with Arrowtown, they have this wonderfully preserved frontier look town yet the main street is chock o block full with new SUV’s and hire cars all blocking the shop frontages and spoiling any chance of photo’s. Seriously, ditch the cars in the main street folks…


PB170205


PB170221


Riding to Glenorchy via Authurs Point encountered a spot of rain. It looked rather heavy ahead so after some thought's turned around and went past Queenstown and tried the road from Frankston down to Kingston. Here too ran into some rain and turned around and then my GPS froze so pulled over to reset it and after a small while could see the rain had already blown over the nearby mountain so did another u turn and managed to get a nice ride in to Kingston and back.


PB170234


PB170240


Riding across from Frankston to Lake Tepaco there is an amazingly diverse landscape, from snow covered mountains and fiord like lakes the country changes as you traverse the superb Lindis range and on to an area with huge tree less grassy hills with lunar like canyons. Fortunately the roads are magic all the way with superb riding to be enjoyed.


PB170254


PB170258


Very strong cross winds on last few days, coming into lake Tepaco the wind would blow me across my lane which was no fun at all. The temperatures plunged so I had to don my thermal base layer but generally was comfortable despite the ice blast wind. The water in these glacier fed lakes has the most amazing blue tinge which you have to see to believe.


PB180268


Lastly, spectacular scenery and great riding roads are located quite close to Christchurch in the Akaroa area. If you only had one day then hire a motorcycle and head straight there for a fun day riding the twisty mountain roads that run around the edge of the extinct volcano rim that surrounds the village below.


PB180274


I had a great time riding NZ albeit with my long term medical issue stopping the proceedings half way through. Definitely am going to cancel my initial plan for a big USA ride next year and down size it to something more manageable.
The roads in NZ are great and have so few cars that they are a non event. Motorcycle hire was quite reasonable, about $150NZ a day all inclusive. Airfares from Australia are as low as $99AUS, fuel was between $2.15-2.20 a litre but the Vstrom was cheap to operate even at these rates. Accommodation will run you about $100-140NZ a night, I found Wi-Fi lacking despite claims otherwise so ask before you book if web access is important. Meals ran between $20-$40NZ each but fast food is much cheaper than this if you wanted to go that way. I cannot think of anywhere you could go and ride so many fantastic roads so affordably.
Get the hell over there!


PB180286

20 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. hi...I was planning to travel all around sth island...is it good ? here in Australia is very bad recently !!! the police are everywhere and is to serious today..,

      Delete
  2. I was planning to do the north island in (this) december, but my finances took a hit and it wasn't to be. Now, I'm quietly hoping to do a tour of both north and south islands at the end of 2012.
    I'm also keen to upgrade to a Tiger 800 (which would be great to ship over there for the adventure), so we'll have to wait and see what happens.
    Thanks for the pictures and adventure report, though.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Looks like you had a fantastic time over there. I would have loved to have riden around there on my recent holiday but had the family in tow.

    It's hard to take a bad photo with scenery such as that. Do you have any more pics.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thanks for the great story and pics.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Got some video and more pics coming from my ride partner when time permits. The video will surprise I think how good the roads are!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Breathtaking! I am saving up for a trip to New Zealand, and hope to be able to make it on a bike when I am there. WOW! More pics please.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Glad you had such a great time. I have an almost identical photo of the drop down the Crown Range - must have used the same parking spot!

    ReplyDelete
  8. More photos to come, and for first time some video from my mate as well, couple of weeks till I get those.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Glad you enjoyed your time riding here, we really enjoyed meeting you. The best places to stay before heading off are in the Addington or Riccarton suburbs which haven't been affected by the quake.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Thanks Andrea, I sure hope the city can recover, the cbd was so vibrant when I first visited it some years back and I was really sad all those places are now gone.

    But as for riding it really was as good as I have experienced anywhere. Europe has the history and culture which are a attraction in themselves but it also has very old surveyed roads full of switchbacks with lots of cars.

    I enjoyed the NZ alpine scenery with sweeping roads with low traffic very much and with the economical airfares and generous exchange rate it is a great destination for riders to think about.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Wind buffeting seems to be the norm for the Vstrom. Which is why so many 1st, add a centre stand and 2nd, change the screen.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Oh really? I didn't mind the bike, just thought I perhaps was not the right fit for it. If I had more time I would have experimented removing the screen and adjusted the suspension.

    ReplyDelete
  13. I'm from Brazil. Congratulations on the Blog. Beautiful pictures.
    Visit my blog: www.bentobulldogsinroad.com.br

    ReplyDelete
  14. WOW awesome blog and some brilliant rides. Somewhere you have to get to is down Batlow and Tumut way, brilliant scenery. We just got back from a ride the other week, down through Gundagai up into Batlow, of apple fame, and then into Tumut. We stayed the night in Tumut at the Merivale motel and the staff were brilliant and they are soon to install a bike garage I hear...highly recommended. There is a road over the back to Canberra but it is dirt...but sometime down the track they are apparently going to tar it....cant wait. Keep up the good work!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Hey there, I am trying to do another ride that way at the moment but it will not stop raining! I stayed in Tumut last time but cannot recall where, will keep that motel in mind if the weather clears.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hi, great info and thanks, going over in November this year and will cover many of the roads you mentioned. I just sold a Strom and found it a great touring bike, but even better after adding the MRA vario touring screen. Standard screen sucks the buffeting is sooo bad! Don't know if I can bring myself to hire one with standard screen but the price per day is good! Will let you know how we go after we return, thanks again PS: how cold did it get in November, and what riding gear would you recommend?

    ReplyDelete
  17. I took the gear listed here -
    http://motorcycleparadise.blogspot.com.au/2011/11/new-zealand-motorcycle-tour-preview.html - Both Jacket and pants had thermal inner liners fitted so this is near to a full winter outfit however it should be noted NZ had a extra long winter in 2011 so check the temperatures in the lead up to your departure.

    I'd certainly give the Suzuki another go if I could solve the buffeting, was otherwise very easy to cover distance on. Perhaps just remove screen and put in panniers!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi IC, well we just got back, and you are right. Awesome roads and scenery, we ended up using Triumph Tigers and they were very comfortable and plenty of power. What a beautiful country and the roads are made for bikes. Can't wait to go back and do some more of the roads we didn't get to. Cheers Craig

      Delete